SCHMETZ Super Stretch Needle – HAx1SP

The Super Stretch Needle can be used in all home sewing machines which require needle system 130/705 H, as well as in some overlock machines (information can be found in your machine manual). Due to its properties, HAx1SP is an alternative to the Stretch Needle when sewing with thicker sewing threads.

The SCHMETZ Super Streth Needle has a special flat shank which allows the needle to be closer to the hook. Additionally, the special design of the scarf area produces a larger needle thread loop which can easily be picked up by the hook. These features prevent skipped stitches on highly elastic fabrics.

Features:

  • The reinforced blade causes less needle breakage and creates straighter stitches.
  • As a result of the wider and shorter eye in combination with the widened groove, the HAx1SP is able to sew with thicker threads than the Universal or the Stretch Needle. The threads are less stressed and will not break.
  • The HAx1SP has a medium ball point which is suitable for all kinds of knits. It displaces the meshes, avoiding damage to the material.
  • This needle has a chrome coating which makes it more resistant against wear.

Click HERE for information.

 

Why is the Topstitch Needle Identified as 130 N?

A few months ago, we discussed the numbering system of household sewing machine needles. The majority are known as 130/705 H needles:   130/705 H (Universal), 130/705 H-E (Embroidery), 130/705 H-Q (Quilting), etc. However, the SCHMETZ Topstitch Needle does not follow that numbering convention. It is known as 130 N. How come?

Here’s the reason according to Jose Reyes of SCHMETZ USA:

Years ago … many years ago …

Domestic machines were sold to customers with two common systems, 130 or 705. Mechanically, these old machines were sold with Rotary Hooks, Shuttle Hooks, or Shuttles. Due to these three differences on the hooks, the point of the old needle and the scarf of the old needle had to be manufactured with different specs. Indeed, these two systems were very similar, but not the same. Years later, sewing machine changes and design forced a unification of these two needle systems.

Today, modern sewing machine are sold with new rotary hooks or a modified shuttle hook, making these differences on the needles not necessary, or critical, to the sewing operation.

The new unified system takes in consideration both old systems (130 & 705), and takes the best specs from both needles to form a new one. This new needle is capable of working with new machines as well with some old machines. The new needle system is called “Universal” or “130/705 H.”  The “H,” in the new system,  indicates that these needles have a flat on the shank.

So, back to the “130 N.” This is an old designation from the system “130.” It has a shorter point and an oversized eye, and is capable of working well in both machines, old and new.

So . . . now you know.

 

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

We know how tough it is to remember what needle to use with a particular fabric. If you’re fortunate, you have access to some reference books or the internet to help you figure it out. If you have a smartphone, you can download the SCHMETZ App (links below). If not, you’re stuck guessing. We’d like to help you out a little bit this week. Our “Cheat Sheet” below lists Fabric/Needle combinations. You can also find this guide in the SCHMETZ ABC Pocket Guide. This is by no means a complete list. Sandra Betzina has written two fantastic reference books that describe a myriad of fabrics and recommendations for what needle (or needles) to use along with other sewing tips germane to a particular fabric. We’re not ashamed to admit it . . . there are times when we are stumped and look to these two books for needle advice. Both books are referenced at the bottom of this post.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Artificial Leather – Microtex or Leather 70/10-100/16

Bamboo – Microtex 70/10-90/14
Batiste – Universal 60/8, 70/10
Bed-Linen, Jersey – Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Bed-Linen, Woven – Universal 70/10-100/16
Bouclé – Jersey 70/10-90/14
Brocade – Universal or Microtex 60/8-90/14

Cambric – Universal 60/8, 70/10
Canvas – Jeans 90/14-110/18
Chambray – Universal 80/12, 90/14
Chenille – Universal 90/14
Chiffon – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10
Coated Material – Microtex 70/10-110/18
Cork – Microtex 70/10-90/14
Corduroy – Universal 80/12-100/16
Cotton, Knit – Jersey 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Cotton, Woven – Universal 70/10-90/14
Crepe – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12
Crepe-de-Chine – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12
Crinkle – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12

Denim – Jeans 70/10-110/18
Double-Face Woven – Universal 70/10-110/18

Elastic – Stretch 65/9-90/14

Felt – Universal 80/12-100/16
Flannel – Universal 80/12-110/18
Fleece – Universal 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Foils – Microtex 60/8-110/18
Fun Fur – Universal 70/10-100/16 or Jersey 70/11-90/14

Gabardine – Universal 70/10-100/16
Gauze – Jersey 70/10, 80/12
Georgette – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12

Jeans – Jeans 70/10-110/18 or Jeans Twin 4.0/100
Jersey – Jersey 60/8-80/12
Jersey with Elastic – Stretch 65/9-90/14

Knits – Jersey 70/10-100/16
Knits with Elastic – Jersey 70/10-100/16 or Stretch 65/9, 75/11, 90/14

Lace – Select by Fabric Type 70/10-90/14
Lamé – Microtex 60/8-90/14
Leather, Thick & Artificial Leather – Leather 100/16-120/19
Leather, Thin – Leather or Universal 70/10-90/14
Lingerie – Stretch 65/9, 75/11, 90/14 or Jersey 70/10-90/14
Linen & Half-Linen – Universal 70/10-90/14
Lycra – Stretch 65/9-90/14 or Jersey 70/10-90/14

Microfiber – Microtex 60-8-90/14

Nylon – Universal or Microtex 60/8-90/14

Oil Cloth – Microtex 80/12-100/16
Organdy – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10
Organza – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10

Polyester – Universal or Microtex 60/8-100/16
Poplin – Microtex or Universal 60/8-80/12

Quilt – Quilting 75/11, 90/14 or Jeans 70/10-110/18

Rayon – Universal 70/10, 80/12

Seersucker – Universal 70/10-90/14
Sequined Fabric – Microtex 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Silk – Microtex 60/8-90/14
Silk Jersey – Stretch 65/9, 75/11
Sweatshirt – Jersey 70/10-90/14

Taffeta – Microtex or Universal 60/8, 70/10
Terry Cloth – Universal 80/12, 90/14
Thermovelour Fleece – Universal 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Tulle – Universal or Jersey 70/10, 80/12
Twill – Jeans 70/10-110/18

Velour – Universal 70/10-100/16
Velour Jersey – Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Velvet – Stretch 75/11, 90/14 or Universal 70/10-90/14
Velvet Burn-Out – Stretch 65/9-90/14
Velvet Panne – Stretch 75/11 or Universal 70/10-80/12
Vinyl – Microtex 60/8-90/14
Voile – Universal 60/8-80/12

Waxed Cloth – Microtex 80/12-100/16
Wool & Wool Blends – Universal 70/10-100/16

 

More Fabric Savvy, Sandra Betzina, The Taunton Press, 2004.
All New Fabric Savvy, Sandra Betzina, The Taunton Press, 2017.

SCHMETZ App
Androidhttps://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.schmetz.needle
iOs (Apple)https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/schmetz/id643064376?ls=1&mt=8

 

Solutions to Common Sewing Problems

Problem

Causes

Solutions

Upper Thread Breaks

 

 

  • Incorrect threading
  • Knots or twists in thread
  • Tension too tight
  • Damaged/old needle
  • Needle too small
  • Re-thread machine properly
  • Replace thread
  • Reset bobbin and top thread tension
  • Replace needle
  • Use correct needle for thread and application

Bobbin Thread Breaks
  • Bobbin case incorrectly threaded
  • Bobbin case incorrectly inserted
  • Bobbin does not turn smoothly in bobbin case
  • Lint in bobbin case
  • Bobbin tension too tight
  • Remove bobbin and re-thread with bobbin turning clockwise
  • Remove and re-insert bobbin case
  • Check that bobbin case and bobbin are in “round”; replace if necessary
  • Clean bobbin case and surrounding machine area
  • Check and reset bobbin tension

Skipped Stitches
  • Thread tension too tight
  • Needle damaged
  • Needle wrong size
  • Sewing machine out of adjustment
  • Reset top and bobbin tension
  • Replace needle
  • Use correct needle size
  • Have sewing machine adjusted for timing; hook to needle clearance; needle bar height

Frayed Stitches
  • Needle too small
  • Tension too tight
  • Damaged thread
  • Increase needle size
  • Reset tension
  • Replace thread

Thread Loops on Bottom
  • Thread not in top tension
  • Machine incorrectly threaded
  • Top tension too loose
  • Burr on hook mechanism
  • Re-thread machine with presser foot “up”
  • Re-thread machine incorporating take-up lever
  • Reset top tension
  • Remove burr

Irregular Stitches or Malformed Stitched
  • Wrong needle size
  • Incorrect threading
  • Upper tension too loose
  • Operator pulling fabric
  • Bobbin wound unevenly
  • Ensure correct needle for fabric & thread
  • Unthread machine and carefully re-thread
  • Reset lower and upper thread tension
  • Check presser foot pressure
  • Rewind bobbin

Fabric Puckers
  • Excessive stitch length
  • Needle point is blunt
  • Excessive thread tension
  • Fabric is too soft
  • Thread displacement – too much thread in a small area
  • Fabric not feeding
  • Decrease stitch length
  • Change needle often
  • Check bobbin and upper tension
  • Use stabilizer
  • Decrease field density; scale embroidery designs; increase stitch length
  • Check presser foot, needle plate, feed dogs
     

SCHMETZ DOUBLE EYE NEEDLE – System 705 DE

 

Did you know there’s a needle with two eyes? Really, it’s true! The needle is called the DOUBLE EYE NEEDLE. Unlike threading two threads through one eye, the sequence of the sewing threads is always determined. This is especially interesting if differently colored sewing threads are used for decorative seams (see seam example below).

When threading the sewing machine, the sewing thread spools should unwind in different directions in order to prevent the entanglement of the threads; i.e. one spool should unwind to the right, the other to the left.

The threads should be threaded through all guiding elements, respecting separation elements above the needle; see also the manual of the machine manufacturer.

Insert the needle into the needle bar as far as it will go. At first try the desired decorative stitch in the smallest width and then gradually increase the width of the stitch. If the upper thread is not optimally picked up, the needle can be minimally lowered – less than 1 mm.

IMPORTANT: After that, turn the hand wheel carefully and carry out the first stitches manually. This avoids machine or needle damages. If there still is no optimal interlocking of both needle threads with the bobbin thread, the adjustment of the machine should be checked.

Click HERE for more information.