A thread is labeled 30 wt. because
one gram is 30 meters long. A 30-wt.
thread is a "heavier" thread,
meaning a thicker cross section, because
a much shorter thread weighs the same
as the 40 wt.
Length — in length
measurements, higher numbers reflect
thicker or heavier threads. "Denier" refers
to the weight in grams of 9000 meters
of thread. If 9000 meters weighs 1120
grams, it is a 120 d thread. Most embroidery
threads are 120/2, which equals 2 strands
of 120-denier thread for a 240 denier
"Tex" refers to the weight in
grams of 1000 meters of thread. If
1000 meters weighs 25 grams, it is
Rule of Thumb — 40 Wt. = 240 denier
= Tex 25. All work in a size 75/11
needle. SCHMETZ advises that the diameter
of the eye of the needle should be
40% larger than the diameter of the
Using the rule of thumb, consider
a larger needle when using threads
heavier than 40wt/240denier/tex25.
Consider using a smaller needle when
using finer threads.
Weight to Denier 9000/weight
Weight to Tex 1000/weight
Denier to Weight 9000/weight
Denier to Tex Denier x 0.111
to Denier Tex x 9
Tex to Weight 1000/Tex
= 240 Denier = Tex 25
30 Weight = 300 Denier = Tex 33
The Physical Dimension of a Thread
- Both top and
bobbin tensions —
Changing the thread physically changes
the tension. When thread size is
changed, the upper and lower tensions
should be checked.
displacement — Too many thread fibers in a set
space make the fabric pucker. Reduce
field density, scale pattern or increase
selection — Eye of the needle should be 40%
larger than the diameter of the thread.
When going to a larger size thread,
a larger needle should be used.