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Double needle — Special needle used
in household zig-zag sewing machines,
consisting of two needle blades which
are connected to one shank by means
of a plastic bridge. Used for pattern
controlled decorative seams with two
needle threads as well as for the sewing
of tucks by means of an inserted cord.
 Flatlock
sewing machine — Machine for sewing
covered seams, used for neat sewing
of raw edges or single lapping of pieces
of material, simultaneously covering
top and bottom of raw edges.
Gauge —
Mesh density per unit of length in
hosiery and kitted fabrics. For linking
machines it indicates the number of
points per unit of length (usually
per inch). This must match the mesh
density of the knitted goods if the
material is to be linked with the meshes
matching exactly. A small gauge indicates
the use of thicker needles, and a larger
gauge, the use of thinner needles.
Hook
needle — Needle similar to a crochet
needle, used in Cornely, saddle stitch,
and linking machines.
Land — Hump-like
section of the needle between the eye
and scarf. On chain stitch needles
in conjunction with another land between
scarf and second long groove, necessary
for the formation of a loop of the
needle thread. This ensures that in
machine without needle bar rise, the
loop of the needle thread can still
be securely caught by the looper.
Long
groove — Its purpose is to guide the
needle thread to the eye. The cross
section is 40% of that of the needle
blade. The diameter of the sewing thread
to be used (not the label number) should
therefore be a maximum of 40% of the
needle size (NM). chain stitching needles
have a second long groove on the opposite
side of the needle. This serves to
guide the part of the sewing thread
emerging from the material vertically
to the eye during needle penetration,
to guarantee correct stitch formation.
On chain stitch needles used in machines
with loopers working parallel to the
sewing direction, both long grooves
are spirally wound.
Needle bar rise — The distance which the needle in
a sewing machine has to pass from the
lower dead-point during the upwards
lift. necessary to form a loop which
can be securely caught by the point
of the hook.
Needle bight — Lateral
deviation between two successive stitches
perpendicular to the seam direction.
Needle distance
(NE) — Distance between
the center axis lines (or points)
of the needles when working simultaneously
with several needles (also applies
to double and triple needles). In
needles for twin-needle machines,
the needle distance is often indicated
by code letters behind the system
designations, i.e., 134 FLG-A. The
code letters used are A, B, C, and
D.
A: needle distance 0.85mm, only
possible with NM 60-80
B: needle distance 1.05 mm, only
possible with NM 70-90
C: needle distance 1.25 mm, only
possible with NM 80-100
D: needle distance 1.45 mm, only
possible with NM 100-110
Overlock machine — Overcasting
sewing machine for trimming locking
edges of material.
Safety stitch
machine — Machine for sewing together parts
of material and simultaneously trimming
and locking of material edges. In most
cases two stitch types work independently
from each other, i.e., stitch types
401 plus 503, but one stitch type only
is also possible, i.e., stitch type
507 or type 512 (so-called imitation
safety stitch).
Scarf — Recess of the
needle blade above the eye, on the
opposite side of the sewing machine
needle to the long groove. It differs
in shape and length and enables the
hook to be placed closer to the center
line (axis) of the needle.
Schiffli
needle — Needle used in automatic Schiffli
embroidery machines (large automatic
embroidery machines). These work with
two needle frames each equipped with
up to 1800 needles.
Seam direction —
Direction in which the stitch types
are successively arranged.
Sewing direction — Direction of the seam progression
from stitch to stitch.
Stitch density — Number of stitches performed in relation
to the unit of length (i.e., 5 stitches/cm.
Stitch
distance — Shortest distance between
two consecutive needle penetrations
in sewing direction.
Stitch formation — The part of the sewing operation
which, in general terms, concerns the
piercing of the material by the needle,
the simultaneous passing of the thread
through the material, and the interlocking
of the thread either by the material,
with itself, or with another thread.
According to the stitch type, the stitch
can also be formed by several needles
and several sewing threads.
Stitch length — Distance between two successive stitches
in the seam direction.
Triple Needle — Special needle used in household
zig-zag sewing machines, consisting
of three needle blades connected to
one shank by means of a plastic bridge.
Used for pattern-controlled decorative
seams with three needle threads.
Twist — twisting of certain needle parts
during manufacture. Needles with twisted
blade = needles with spiral long groove.
Needles with twisted point groove =
needles with twisted groove below the
eye, i.e., CL (left twisted point groove).
Wing
needle — Special needle for household
sewing machine with wings to obtain
the hemstitch effect.
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