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Needle Dictionary
BLUKOLD
needle Special needle with roughened, phosphorated surface coated
with Teflon. This needle surface prevents or greatly reduces adhesion
of residues of melted synthetic materials, for longer duration than, for
example, chromium plated needles. The needle remains cleaner longer . .
. skipped stitches and thread breakage are minimized.
Double needle
Special needle used in household zig-zag sewing machines, consisting
of two needle blades which are connected to one shank by means of a
plastic bridge. Used for pattern controlled decorative seams with two
needle threads as well as for the sewing of tucks by means of an
inserted cord.
Flatlock sewing machine Machine for sewing covered seams, used
for neat sewing of raw edges or single lapping of pieces of material,
simultaneously covering top and bottom of raw edges.
Gauge Mesh density per unit of length in hosiery and kitted
fabrics. For linking machines it indicates the number of points per unit
of length (usually per inch). This must match the mesh density of the
knitted goods if the material is to be linked with the meshes matching
exactly. A small gauge indicates the use of thicker needles, and a
larger gauge, the use of thinner needles.
Hook needle Needle similar to a crochet needle, used in Cornely,
saddle stitch, and linking machines.
Land Hump-like section of the needle between the eye and scarf.
On chain stitch needles in conjunction with another land between scarf
and second long groove, necessary for the formation of a loop of the
needle thread. This ensures that in machine without needle bar rise, the
loop of the needle thread can still be securely caught by the looper.
Long groove Its purpose is to guide the needle thread to the
eye. The cross section is 40% of that of the needle blade. The diameter
of the sewing thread to be used (not the label number) should therefore
be a maximum of 40% of the needle size (NM). chain stitching needles
have a second long groove on the opposite side of the needle. This
serves to guide the part of the sewing thread emerging from the material
vertically to the eye during needle penetration, to guarantee correct
stitch formation. On chain stitch needles used in machines with loopers
working parallel to the sewing direction, both long grooves are spirally
wound.
Needle bar rise The distance which the needle in a sewing
machine has to pass from the lower dead-point during the upwards lift.
necessary to form a loop which can be securely caught by the point of
the hook.
Needle bight Lateral deviation between two successive stitches
perpendicular to the seam direction.
Needle
distance (NE) Distance between the
center axis lines (or points) of the needles when working simultaneously
with several needles (also applies to double and triple needles). In
needles for twin-needle machines, the needle distance is often indicated
by code letters behind the system designations, i.e., 134 FLG-A. The
code letters used are A, B, C, and D.
A:
needle distance 0.85mm, only possible with NM 60-80
B: needle
distance 1.05 mm, only possible with NM 70-90
C: needle
distance 1.25 mm, only possible with NM 80-100
D: needle
distance 1.45 mm, only possible with NM 100-110
Overlock machine Overcasting sewing machine for trimming
locking edges of material.
Safety stitch machine Machine for sewing together parts of
material and simultaneously trimming and locking of material edges. In
most cases two stitch types work independently from each other, i.e.,
stitch types 401 plus 503, but one stitch type only is also possible,
i.e., stitch type 507 or type 512 (so-called imitation safety stitch).
Scarf Recess of the needle blade above the eye, on the opposite
side of the sewing machine needle to the long groove. It differs in
shape and length and enables the hook to be placed closer to the center
line (axis) of the needle.
Schiffli needle Needle used in automatic Schiffli embroidery
machines (large automatic embroidery machines). These work with two
needle frames each equipped with up to 1800 needles.
Seam direction Direction in which the stitch types are
successively arranged.
Sewing direction Direction of the seam progression from stitch
to stitch.
Stitch density Number of stitches performed in relation to the
unit of length (i.e., 5 stitches/cm.
Stitch distance Shortest distance between two consecutive
needle penetrations in sewing direction.
Stitch formation The part of the sewing operation which, in
general terms, concerns the piercing of the material by the needle, the
simultaneous passing of the thread through the material, and the
interlocking of the thread either by the material, with itself, or with
another thread. According to the stitch type, the stitch can also be
formed by several needles and several sewing threads.
Stitch length Distance between two successive stitches in the
seam direction.
Triple Needle Special needle used in household zig-zag sewing
machines, consisting of three needle blades connected to one shank by
means of a plastic bridge. Used for pattern-controlled decorative seams
with three needle threads.
Twist twisting of certain needle parts during manufacture.
Needles with twisted blade = needles with spiral long groove. Needles
with twisted point groove = needles with twisted groove below the eye,
i.e., CL (left twisted point groove).
Wing needle Special needle for household sewing machine with
wings to obtain the hemstitch effect.
ฉ2001 Ferd.
Schmetz GMBH.
All rights reserved.
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